Friday, November 15 - Vietnam to Cambodia
We traveled from our hotel to
the boat dock by "Ho Chi Minh surreys", one-passenger trailers pulled
by bicycle riders. At the dock, we
boarded a long speedboat for the half-day trip on the Mekong River to Phnom
Penh, the capital of Cambodia. The river
was wide, silty, and swift moving and we passed fishermen tending their nets,
groves of banana and other fruit trees, water buffalo, isolated homes, small
towns, and temples.
We left the boat at a floating
Vietnamese immigration office to have our paperwork for departure
certified. After 45 minutes or so, we
re-boarded and traveled a short distance before reaching the Cambodian customs
and immigration station. We've never
before been processed at and entry station with hens and roosters wandering
around accompanied by a litter of puppies!
We secured our entry visas, had our passports stamped numerous times,
returned to the boat and waited, and waited, and waited. One of the passengers was deemed to have had
insufficient space around one of his passport stamps and this was determined to
be a major problem, despite the fact that his passport had blank pages. Once things were sorted out, we were on the road
river again.
Our local guide and a driver
met us at the boat and delivered us to our lovely spa hotel half a block from
the Royal Palace. We had the rest of the afternoon on our own,
so we walked a couple of blocks to the river for a look at the Royal palace
from the lovely quay-side promenade. We
walked along the embankment for a bit, then took a tuk-tuk to Wat Phnom, the
hilltop temple that legend holds marks the spot where the city was
founded. The temple was quite elaborate
and is in a lovely setting, surrounded at ground level by a fine park.
Our short walk from the temple
to the central market was punctuated by entreaties from numerous tuk-tuk
drivers to ride with them. Tuk-tuks are
small carriages pulled by motorbikes and they are EVERYWHERE in this city. We saw no car taxis, the tuk-tuk drivers
union must have beaten out the cabbies here!
The central market is a huge,
domed, Art Deco affair, with long halls extending from a central rotunda. As usual, if you need it, you'll probably
find it there, or in the busy shops that line its perimeter streets.
Tonight, we had dinner at a
restaurant run by an organization that rescues boys from the streets and trains
them. They did a wonderful job and the
food and service were fine and the setting, the front garden and porch of a
colonial house, was just lovely.
As we walked around today, we
were struck by the challenges that pedestrians face here and in the Vietnamese
cities and towns we visited. The
sidewalks themselves are treacherous, with holes in the pavement, broken pavers
and very uneven footing. Add to that the reality that sidewalks also provide
parking spaces for cars and motorbikes, showroom space for retailers, kitchens
for street food vendors, and dining rooms for their customers and pedestrians
frequently take to the streets; we've already covered what they're like! Nimble is the name of the game.
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