Friday, November 8, 2013

Friday, November 8 - Hanoi


The best-laid plans...
As we were in the taxi headed to the airport during our aborted departure last night, I remarked about the fact that, though I didn't find Hanoi "attractive" in any normal sense, I was going to miss it.   Thanks to super typhoon Haiyan, which is currently devastating the Philippines and barreling toward central Vietnam with no diminution of strength, we have once again changed our plans.  We were supposed to have been in Hue two nights and then moved down the coast a bit to Hoi An for two more.  Those two cities are directly in the path of Haiyan, which is expected to strike the coast late this weekend.  Given the fact that we were to fly out of that area, from Danang to Saigon on Sunday, we decided this morning to forgo Hue and Hoi An entirely, stay here in Hanoi one more day, and head to Saigon tomorrow.  Accordingly, we contacted our Vietnamese travel agent again this morning and asked her to work on the necessary arrangements.  While we are very disappointed that we'll be missing two places we very much wanted to see, we'd rather live to finish this trip and plan a possible return!  I guess the bottom line is, we weren't dying to get there!
So, we were on our own today, and it was spent as we typically travel on our own.  We chose a few things we wanted to see, a couple of directions to wander, and we were off!  First off, we went around the corner to the Catholic Cathedral, which we'd been unable to enter a couple of days ago.  This morning after wading through joyously, boisterously happy preschoolers at play (eager to say "hello," they swarmed around us), we found the back door and paid a visit.  Then, it was on to the Buddhist pagoda down the block, the same place we'd witnessed an evening service a couple of nights ago.
Through the chaotic streets of the Old Town and beyond, we wandered.  At one point, along Embassy Row, we were stunned to reach an intersection of several streets where all traffic was stopped and the usual cacophony of Hanoi streets totally ceased; it was absolutely, totally silent!  There were police stationed  multiple points to ensure that no one moved, revved their engines, or thought subversive thoughts as a caravan of government vehicles (identifiable by blue, rather than white license plates) proceeded along Dien Bien Phu Avenue.  Once the signal was given, the uproar resumed -- amazing!
After a rest in a park dominated by a statue of Lenin, we began to wander with a purpose -- lunch!  We came upon a place that I'd read about a couple of nights ago, but decided was too chancy for our stomachs.  I guess we've grown up, because we plunged right in.  The sight of Tom on a toddler-sized stool, at a midget-height table, under a ceiling that was almost too low for Mary Ellen, with used napkins and discarded green leaf food wrappers strewn on the floor was priceless!  Lunch was great, cheap and, so far, our GI systems haven't batted an eye.







After lunch, we headed to the former An Loc prison, now a museum.  The prison was first used by the occupying French, Japanese, and French again to punish Vietnamese political prisoners.  It came to notoriety for Americans during our war here as the "Hanoi Hilton," where captured US pilots ("shot down by the Vietnamese people") were held.  The propaganda is heavy-handed, with much space and description given to the brutal treatment of Vietnamese by their occupiers -- horrific, to be sure.  But, when it came to the treatment of American pilots, though, there was evidently nothing but the most humane treatment.  The photographic displays and written descriptions left no doubt that this was the happiest group of guys to be found outside a frat house; given the recreational opportunities, the Christmas celebrations, the health care, the bonds formed with their captors, one can only imagine how difficult it was for them to leave it all and return home! 
Back to the streets for a dose of reality, and we headed back to the Old Town in search of the Memorial House, a museum dedicated to a traditional Hanoi house.  It's being gutted and renovated, but we did happen upon a traditional communal house, once the center of silver craftsmen, and now preserved as an example of historical Hanoi commerce, domestic, and religious courtyard structures. 
We used our Trip Advisor app, as we have each night here, to find a place close to our hotel for dinner.  Each time, we've been pleased to find ourselves in a small, authentic (or so it's seemed), CHEAP restaurant with good Vietnamese dishes.  (Tonight’s was not the best-Tom)
Some thoughts on Hanoi:
                                    -Life is lived on the streets.  Food is cooked and eaten.  Old ladies sit and watch the passing scene.  Shops display their wares.  Little children play.  Happy hour goes on all day.
                                    -Motorcycles rule.  They rush like a river through the streets.  The sidewalks are largely set aside as parking areas for them, driving pedestrians out into the streets to do battle with them there. (The streets have three contending participants, the cars, the motorbikes/cycles and the people. There is little room to walk on sidewalks because of parked motorcycles and businesses so you end up walking in the street but unlike the others, you don’t have a horn. It tends to get the blood pumping.-Tom)
                                    -Despite first appearances, the Old Town is quite organized.  The original historic system of designated streets for each craft guild has evolved into concentrated blocks of like shops.  Metal, silk, toys, tools, shoes, bamboo, glass, paint, party goods, sunglasses, locks, tropical fish, clothes, leather goods, flowers, spices, safes, bathroom fixtures -- you name it, it has its own conglomeration of open-air storefronts, some of them also home to the craftsmen who create the goods, on the street, of course!
                                    -There's a temple or pagoda on every block, or so it seems.  They're often tucked away behind a gated wall and they offer a series of oases steps away from the crush of the city.
Spending an unplanned extra day here turned out to be a good thing!

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